Project P19 | Bodice Emrboidery

I don't have a lot to share what I've been doing for Padme's Picnic Dress, or Project P19, at the moment because most of what I've done so far is embroidery, but I wanted to post about what I have done so far.

I finished drafting the bodice on my sewing form (sorry, I forgot to take pictures of that) and patterned it a few weeks ago. It's a pretty simple design, consisting of a total of 9 panels. I cut my pattern pieces of 2 layers; canvas for the structured layer and a crinkled nylon chiffon for the top layer. I will also be cutting these same pieces out of my lining fabric, but I don't have any on hand at the moment.

Once all my pieces were cut I flatlined the top layer to the canvas by surging around the edges. This was a little tricky with the chiffon since it's so light weight, but I was able to get it done fairly well considering I've never really worked with sheer fabrics before.

The next step was figuring out the embroidery pattern. Only two of the panels have embroidery on them; the center front piece and the two on either side have just a little bit of embroidery. Figuring out the embroidery and turning it into a pattern I could use was a little bit of a challenge.

I was originally planning on drawing the pattern onto paper then somehow mirror it and transfer it to the bodice, but I quickly realized that that was going to be really difficult. I pulled out Dressing A Galaxy and some tracing paper and started tracing the main embroidery. I simplified the pattern because there's a lot going on on that bodice and was able to use that for my pattern.

Once I had my simplified version traced I cut it into 3 different sections and spread it over my bodice to get an idea of the size. Luckily the size of the photo in the book is pretty close to my bodice piece and I was able to use my tracings for my pattern.

This book. It's kind of amazing.

As soon as I knew that this would work I copied the pattern to a second piece of tracing paper and made copies that I could use to mirror the pattern, which I then pinned to the center bodice piece. And then it was time to start embroidering!

Here's the part that I'm currently still working on. I've started by working the outlining stitching. While examining reference photo's I saw that the outline stitching appeared to be very small chain stitches from a very thin thread. I opted to use normal sewing thread for this part instead of using embroidery thread and I really like the way it looks. My stitching could stand to be a little smaller (okay, maybe a lot smaller) but considering I don't know that much about embroidery I'm happy with it.

Once I was done with the first phase of embroidery on the bottom section I tore away the tracing paper and voila! Pretty embroidery! There's still a lot more to do in this section, but tearing away the tissue paper and getting a glimpse of what it will look like is really satisfying.

Then it was time to move onto the next section...

And that's pretty much where I'm at right now.

Project P19 | Costume Analysis

I feel like I've been jumping all over the place with my costumes lately. I'm at different places with each costume that I'm working on and when I'm stuck waiting on something (whether it be fabric, inspiration, or just procrastinating) I still have the need to be working on something which usually means starting a new project. In this case, it's my next Star Wars Cosplay, Padme's Picnic Dress from Attack of the Clones.

This costume was referred to as P 19 during production, which is what I've come to refer to it as, as that's shorter than Padme's Picnic Dress. ;D

I started the mock up several months ago (I think back in November) because I didn't have anything better to do and I was experimenting with new-to-me drafting techniques. However, I didn't finish the mock up and pattern it until about a week ago. I also decided on this particular dress because near the end of summer I found most all of the material's I need at Goodwill for about $30 and I realized May the 4th is coming up and I need to actually make a costume this year.

This costume consists of 4 main pieces: the skirt, the "corset" bodice, the blouse, and the shawl.

Skirt - This has been one of the more confusing pieces for me to figure out. I'm not sure what the shape is because as you can see in the photo above, it lays relatively flat in the front but has much more fabric gathered to the sides. The skirt is embroidered and has 4-leaf clover sequins that are also on the shawl.

For my costume, I decided on making the skirt with 5 A-Line skirt panels, making the side and back panels with more fabric than the front to try and replicate this. I'll be making this from 3 layers: the top layer, which is chiffon, the middle "petticoat" layer which is a yellow nylon fabric, and the lining layer. All three layers will be stitched onto a basic waistband and will close with an invisible zipper.

Bodice - I've seen a lot of people refer to the bodice as a "corset" but it's not. A corset is a structured garment that shapes the body. This is just a bodice that resembles a corset in shape and closes with a zipper closure in the back. It's boned, but if you look at promotional photo's you can see wrinkles in the fabric that indicate that it's only lightly boned. It's also heavily embroidered at the front.

I'm making my bodice from 3 layers: a crinkle nylon fabric for the top layer, canvas for the middle support layer, and a lining on the inside.

Blouse - The blouse sits off the shoulder, has spaghetti straps, and has long, wide sleeves that are gathered and tucked at the forearm and wrist. In this behind the scene video from Dressing a Galaxy, you can actually see this costume hanging and the blouse is attached to the "corset" bodice. I'll be using the same chiffon as I am for the skirt.

Shawl - The shawl is pretty simple. It's made of a mesh fabric embroidered with flowers and has an embroidered scallop edge. It sits on the shoulders along the same neckline of the blouse and is pinned closed at the front with a dragonfly broach. The fabric I'm using for this is a curtain panel that already has the same design (flowers and all) embroidered on it, it just needs to be dyed a slightly more yellow color.

Accessories for this costume include: a small dragonfly broach (mentioned above), green, yellow, and pink silk ribbon's tied around the wrists and in the hair, crocheted hair buns, embroidered ribbon headband, and of course shoes.

Padme's shoes are some of the hardest things to get information on because they're rarely seen in the films or BTS footage because of her long skirts, however there are photo's of the shoes from when the costume was worn in the Rose Parade. Picture via The Padawan's Guide.

So where exactly does that leave me? Well, right now I'm at the embroidery stage on the bodice. I'll be writing another blog post soon with more details about my making of since this post was more of a costume analysis. Until then, here's a little peek at what it currently looks like.

Star Wars Costume Exhibit

Okay guys, so as some of you may know the EMP in Seattle has had a Star Wars costume exhibit open most of the year. Last month I finally got to go and see it for myself. I cannot even begin to express how amazing these costumes are! They're absolutely gorgeous! Pictures just don't do them justice. They're a thousand times more beautiful in person.

I took lots of pictures, and I have chosen a few (okay, 20+) of my favorites to share here but if you want to see all of them check out my Google+ album.

The exhibit consisted about three quarters of costumes from the prequel trilogy (and most of that was Padme's lol) and the other quarter from the original trilogy. When I saw the costumes I was surprised at see just how small Natalie Portman was. You really can't tell from the photos, but she was tiny!

Please pardon any blurry photos. The lighting was horrible and they didn't allow any flash photography.

They had the dressing gown, which I made sure to take lots of photo's of! I have a new theory on the skirt and I think I figured out what I've been doing wrong on the shape of the bodice...

My favorite, the meadow picnic dress. It's so pretty in person!

I was glad to see they had costumes from some of the lesser known Jedi like Luminara. Every costume has so much detail even if they were only in the background, like Luminara here.

I've been doing research for making a DL-44 blaster for my Mara Jade costume and it was great to get to see Han's in person!

I always get excited when I see closures on costumes. YAY SNAPS!

 I realized that the jumpsuits for the rebel fighters and TIE pilots are nearly identical except for the rebels have an extra set of pockets on the shin and of course the color. (Left: X-Wing pilot Right: TIE Fighter Pilot)

Feel free to share any of these photo's but please link back to me. Thanks!

The Packing Gown {Petticoat}

I have officaly started working on the real Packing Gown! YAY! I finished the mock up for the underskirt/petticoat a while ago and I bough the fabric the other day.  I ended up getting 4 yards of dark blue broadcloth and 3 yards of blue tulle. I used pretty much all of the broadcloth but only about a yard of the tulle.

Because I don't have a serger I zigzagged the edges of the ruffles. It turned out good, it just took a bit of time. Though it went a lot quicker that if I had double folded the edges.

The finished petticoat! To put it in the words of Han Solo "She may not look like much, but she's got it where it count's!". It ended up taking less ruffles than I had originally thought it would.

And here's the "bustle". Again, it doesn't look that great, but it does it's job.

Other than needing to clip a few loose threads, the petticoat is done. I'm super excited to be working on the actual costume and not just the mock up!

Vest and Skirt Update

 I've made some really good progress on the Packing Gown! YAY! I actually finished (for now at least) the skirt and under skirt mock ups. Here's some pictures of the skirt (with the underskirt on of course).

 I think I'm going to need to add another row or two of ruffles to the under skirt, but for the most part it's looking pretty good.

After struggling a lot with the vest, I finally got it right! The back is done except it does need a little work on the shaping of the bottom. Unfortunately this  used up the last of my mock up material. Hopefully I'll be able to get more quickly.

I've almost completed drafting the front as well, but it still needs a bit of work. I've also been working on the collar but obviously I haven't been able to sew it on just yet.

I think that's it for now. Hopefully I'll be getting more material soon so I can keep going.